Cross Country Road Trip, 2019 - Day 8

Navajo Bridge over the Colorado River

Our alarm woke us up at 5:10 and we stumbled down 3 flights of stairs to the hotel porch where we joined 20 other sleepy guests to watch the sunrise. Some people were standing under the cover of the porch, some were standing out in the wind and rain, but all of them were silently staring at the canyon. We walked out into the rain and stood at the rim, watching the morning sun try to break through the heavy clouds. The rain was freezing and the wind blew hard and soon we were too cold to stay outside, so we went back up to our room.

Lavender sunrise in the rain

Matrimony Rock

Our hotel is named El Tovar, a hotel that was built for the Santa Fe Railroad and opened in 1905. We got a deluxe room with an ever-so-partial view of the canyon (and an ample view of the parking lot), a sitting area, and the most comfortable bed we’ve slept in on this trip. The room was so cozy and relaxing that we lounged in it until we had to checkout at 11:00. We loaded our luggage in the car (2 carry-on suitcases and 2 backpacks—we travel light) and then walked the rim trail looking for the matrimony rock. The matrimony rock is a heart-shaped rock embedded in the wall that runs along the rim walk. In 1934, a crew member from the Civilian Conservation Corps found the rock while they were building the wall, and he placed it there for a girl he fell in love with. That’s the short version of the story, anyway.

We explored the Hopi House, a gift shop that sells high-end Native American arts and crafts (and also magnets and playing cards and rocks). The house was built in 1905 right next to El Tovar and modeled after the pueblos of the Hopi tribe in Arizona. While on the 3^rd floor, which has such beautiful artwork it seems to double as a museum, I asked Chad to buy me a $4,000 hand-woven Navajo blanket and he said no.

Hopi House, built in 1905

We stopped at the Maswick Lodge for lunch while watching sweat-soaked hikers come in to the dining area after their climb out of the canyon. Every single one them winced with pain as they sat down. It reminded me of Rocky IV during Rocky’s fight with Ivan Drago whenever Rocky collapsed on the stool in his corner between rounds. The hikers looked just as dazed and exhausted as Rocky. As Chad and I looked for a place to take our plates after lunch, we heard a voice say, “Leave them on your table. You’re on vacation, enjoy yourselves.” We turned to see an employee having her lunch at a table near ours. We thanked her and walked over to yet another gift shop. This time, Chad bought me a sweatshirt to make up for denying me my very own hand-woven Navajo blanket that I would have probably spilled spaghetti on anyway.

Chad looking at the Colorado River

We got in our car and drove east through roads lined with ponderosa pines, spotting elk every so often. Stopping at every lookout, we were able to view Grand Canyon from different angles, and each time was as overwhelming as the first. I was surprised to find so few safety fences or barriers. Just sheer cliffs that could send a clumsy tourist (i.e., me) straight to certain death. Several of the gift shops sell a 2-inch thick book about all the fatal “mishaps” that have happened in Grand Canyon. It’s as if the Grand Canyon employees are like, “You wanna fall? Fine by us. We’ll just add your name to the book.” Whenever Chad and I got near the edge of the canyon and there was no fence, I became terrified that some lunatic was going to come up behind us and shove us off the cliff. Yes, it’s irrational, but it’s really not that irrational. So, while Chad visited with other tourists and took family pictures for them, I stood a safe 10-feet back from the edge and watched for suspicious looking individuals. And yelled at Chad each time I thought he was too close to the edge.

Four feet from the edge
Six seconds from a heart attack

Our final stop was Desert View near the eastern entrance to Grand Canyon. This area has fantastic views of the Colorado River and a 70-foot stone watchtower designed by the same woman who built the Hopi House. We climbed to the observation platform and were enjoying the view when a huge clap of thunder came roaring through the canyon. We could see the rain clouds coming, but this roll of thunder was so loud it jolted me a bit. A park ranger appeared and told everyone the observation deck was closed because “when the thunder roars, we go indoors.” Chad and I wrapped up our visit, got in our car, and decided where we should go next. We decided to head towards home because nothing could beat what we just experienced. We chose a route we’ve never taken and we started the long drive.

Desert View Watchtower

One of a hundred views that left us speechless

As we drove through Glen Canyon, we came upon the Colorado River and crossed the Navajo Bridge. We stopped at the visitor center and walked out to the middle of the pedestrian bridge, which was built in 1928 and eventually replaced by another bridge that was built to handle the heavy cars and trucks of our time. Walking across that 834-foot bridge nearly 500 feet over the river was petrifying. I managed to grab the rail and look over the edge down into the brilliant green river. Chad spit over the edge and it took his spit 15 seconds to reach the water. We took our customary selfie but I was too scared to smile, I was busy making sure no one was sneaking up on us to throw us over the edge. But the views, like everything else this area, were unbelievable.

Over the next few hours, we drove through the Vermilion Cliffs on our way to Utah. 294,000 acres of the most brilliant red hills we’ve seen since, well, earlier today. We didn’t listen to any music on the drive because it would have been too distracting. The surrounding views were about all our senses could handle. We stopped in Fredonia, a town in the middle of nowhere, and ate a yummy dinner at Flying U Grill. When we got to a town with cell service, we found a hotel in Cedar City, Utah, that seemed like a good place to stop for the night.

“Grand Canyon stretches 277 miles, is approximately 1 mile deep and an average of 10 miles across. Within the canyon, the Colorado River averages 300 feet from side to side. At 2,600 square miles, Grand Canyon is slightly larger than the state of Delaware.” 

– A sign at Grand Canyon

-Rachel