Saturday, July 20, 2019

Cross Country Road Trip, 2019 - Day 4

Oklahoma City National Memorial & Museum
Today’s drive from Arkansas to Oklahoma was a pretty boring ride. We passed hundreds of semis on the road, and Chad gave me a thrilling 14-hour lesson on the hazardous material placards that semis are required to display. He explained that “If drivers are hauling hazardous materials, they must display the placard on all sides of the vehicle, and drivers must carry their hazardous material manifest at all times and keep it within reach.”

I asked, “By 'placard' do you mean that big diamond sticker that says ‘flammable’?”

“Actually, it’s not technically a diamond. It’s a square on point, but most people call them diamonds,” he said.

I learned more than I ever thought I could about those diamo... excuse me, square on point placards that semis are required to display.

We took a quick detour to Fort Smith, Arkansas, so we could see 3 giant arrows sticking out of the ground. The arrows were made from 40-foot-long telephone poles weighing 1,100 pounds each and are part of an art installation by a street artist named D*FACE, who partnered with the Choctaw Nation to create them. If something is unusual or weird, I will stop to admire it. We admired the arrows for precisely 3 minutes and then kept driving.
Tiny Chad and giant arrows in Arkansas
Three hours later, we reached Oklahoma City and drove directly to the National Memorial & Museum which memorializes the bombing of the Murrah Federal Building that occurred on April 19, 1995 when Timothy McVeigh parked a rental truck carrying a 4,800-pound homemade bomb in the drop-off zone underneath the building’s daycare center. The bomb went off at 9:02 am, and in an instant 55,000 square-feet of office space collapsed into 7,000 square-feet of rubble killing and trapping 168 people (19 of them were children ages 5 and under).

We bought our tickets at the museum and entered the exhibit. The self-guided tour began with a description of what the day was like for the people of Oklahoma City on the morning of the bombing. We entered a room which held a table with a tape recorder on it and 8 empty chairs. We listened to a recording of a board meeting that took place the morning of the bombing. We sat quietly as we listened to the meeting proceed as normal when suddenly the sound of an explosion shook the room for 10 seconds. The tape is the only recording of the bombing in existence. As soon as the sound of the explosion ended, 168 photos of the victims appeared on the wall across from us. Immediately the doors opened to the remainder of the exhibit and we were inundated by the chaos and aftermath of the explosion. A tv played news clips of the devastation that morning, display cases held debris and personal objects recovered from the rubble, and we continued through the museum in absolute silence. Our experience was incredibly solemn, and Chad and I didn’t speak much, but there was a lot of tapping each other and pointing to displays when one of us found something exceptionally poignant.

We learned about the first frantic moments of the explosion, the rescue and recovery efforts, the stories of the families whose loved ones were trapped in the building and the agonizing 16 days they waited because that’s how long it took to sift through the rubble. We walked through the Gallery of Honor where each victim’s photo is posted along with an artifact donated by his or her family so visitors can learn a tiny bit about the person they were. This hopeless, depressing exhibit was followed by stories and images of healing and the powerful telling of how our country and the world came together to comfort and help the people of Oklahoma City.

The Gallery of Honor

The car he was driving
The license he was carrying
The shirt he was wearing
In the next room, we viewed the evidence and details of the investigation that led to the arrest and execution of Timothy McVeigh. We stayed until the museum closed, and then walked next door to the memorial. The area where the federal building once stood has been turned into a gorgeous outdoor memorial. The street where McVeigh drove the truck is now a reflecting pool. Next to the pool, in the footprint of the Murrah Building, sits the Field of Empty Chairs: 168 chairs, each one engraved with the name of a victim. 19 of the chairs are smaller to signify the children. The chairs are arranged in 9 rows, each row representing the floor a person was on when they were killed. The memorial is so peaceful and every visitor was extremely respectful. As we left, we felt unsettled and sad. The museum gave us a lot to process, and we were worn out by the end but so glad we visited. 

A view of the memorial from the museum 
Across the street from the memorial stands this statue of Jesus.
Inscribed on the pedestal is the verse: And Jesus Wept
All of OKC looked like this

We sat on a bench in the middle of downtown and the city felt like a ghost town. Every so often a person would zoom by on a rented scooter, but other than that, there were no humans anywhere. We looked for hotels and decided we didn’t want to stay in OKC any longer, so we found a place in Clinton just an hour away. When we got into town, we called Adamo’s Route 66 Italian Villa and ordered pizza and salads and brought them to our hotel room. Tomorrow we’ll begin our tour of Route 66, and we’re looking forward to laughing and being carefree and making our way west. 

“A tragedy like this could have torn this city apart, but instead it has united this city… and that is an example to us all. The forces of hate and violence must not be allowed to gain their victory, not just in our society, but in our hearts. Nor must we respond to hate with more hate. This is a time of coming together, and we have seen that and been inspired by it.” – Reverend Billy Graham 4/23/95


 - Rachel

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